Extracts from Newsletter 23
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Doug (our son) and I spent three weeks exploring the remote Muzkol area of Tadjikistan. Fellow climbers consisted of three Americans, three Russians and seven other Brits. The objective was to climb peaks that had not been climbed before (and preferably over 6000 metres).
The journey itself was an adventure, three days across Uzbekistan, Kirgistan and Tadjikistan. At one time we drove twenty miles along the electrified fence that forms the border with China and just the other side of the mountains was Afghanistan. Border and control points were criss-crossed many times but fortunately we had a Russian Mr. Fixit on board and he negotiated everything from exit and entry to the best table in the restaurant.
Gradually the areas that we travelled became more and more remote until eventually we left behind the “metalled” road to follow a riverbed for an estimated forty miles. We then took a long valley up into the mountains. Just below the mountain range a river forms with the daily ice melt and a little fan of green intersects the brown desert shale. Base camp was at 3700 metres.
Over the next two weeks we mounted two expeditions into the mountains. Each expedition consisted of two days hard slog over the desert plain and up a mountain valley to establish camp 2 at the foot of the targeted mountains. There were no paths and route finding across the rivers, through gorges and over piles of rocky debris proved an interesting challenge.
Tree mountains were climbed, two at 5500 metres and one at 6060 metres and the names Snow Leopards Tooth, Four Nations Peak and the White Pyramid are to be submitted to the Tadjikistan authourities for ratification. Only The White Pyramid required sustained technical climbing with deep and steep snow and substantial ice bulges on the later sections of the mountain.
As the climbing objectives had been met and we had some time to spare the general area was explored. We met our nearest neighbour, 15 miles down the valley and swapped snicker bars for a haunch of yak and visited with the local nomads for yak, yoghurt and cheese. Interesting items but I don’t think they will catch on in the UK. Finally the journey home. including a pleasant afternoon in the local sauna complete with vodka, music and dancing!
Harvey
Barney On: 2CV’s After we jumped over the sand dune and broke the chassis we tied it together with rope and it lasted for the rest of the Sahara. |
After an excellent Saturday spent climbing Hedera, Oakover and Alcatraz, and with Great Western already under our belt on Sunday, we scrambled through the rough of Craig Pant Ifan desperately looking for Olympic Slab. Unfortunately it was not to be and we were beaten by the dense bramble and thorny undergrowth. Let's go and do Scratch Arete (VS, 4c) we agreed, and so roped up at its foot. Derek was soon underway and before long had completed the first pitch of Barbarian (E1, 5b)! Being way past the rightwards traverse of Scratch Arete the next thing I heard was `Since we are here, how do you fancy doing Barbarian?' Having unwisely agreed he then added `Fortunately you get the difficult 5b pitch!' What had I let myself in for? We seemed to be having enough trouble on the VS 4c's, and now we were going to be committed to a 5b for heavens sake!
Up at the belay the route ahead was clear - two pronounced overhangs and the two guys in front seemed to be having trouble with the second one! A few false starts later and the first overhang was strenuously overcome - but at a cost of considerable effort. Tired now, the easy corner crack was stitched up in readiness for the difficult crux. A move to the right, a nicely placed hex, and I was feeling more confident. A friend just under the overhang also provided a nice feeling as I found myself compressed under the prominent roof. Then things started to go wrong. Kicking out the bomber hex was bad news, but by then I was past the point of no return. Well and truly committed I grabbed the arete and pulled over, moving `a cheval' and relying heavily on the friction provided by my trousers! Relieved to get to the next corner the end was in sight. But even here the obvious juggy hold wobbled alarmingly and seemed about to part company with the surrounding rock. With a little care it stayed in place and I was soon on top having completed a classic E1; my first lead at this grade. So much for doing Scratch Arete!!!!
Steve Humphries
Having already climbed the Pembrokeshire classic, Diedre Sud, a three star HS at Mowing Word, John, Steve and I abseiled back down to the start of our next route, Razorbill, an 180’ one star VS. ‘My lead’ said John as he assembled the ironmongery for the sea level traverse, while Steve and I settled in a niche to belay. With the tide still fairly high John turned the first corner and was soon out of sight; presumably tackling the small indentation some 20 metres or so away. An urgent call of ‘tight rope,’ followed by silence and a sharp tug on the belay, stopped our reflections on the previous route while we pondered the leader’s plight. On John’s return we soon understood the problem, and it was hard to stifle our amusement as water poured from every part of his body. Even the inquisitive seal swimming nearby appeared to have a smile on its face! Although having suffered nothing worse than total immersion after losing his grip on the cliff face (aided by half-a-ton of iromongery not normally carried when deep-water soloing), John relinquished the lead and proceeded to drip water all over Steve as he belayed my attempt at the traverse. Taking a lower line than John the 80’ traverse just skimmed the water’s edge, and would have been more than exciting in a rough swell. After bringing Steve over to the belay (John having decided to give this climb a miss) we completed the next two pitches to end a highly recommended climb in a truly superb location on the Pembrokeshire coast.
Derek
Barney on: Snorting Vodka It clears the nasel passages a treat |
I’m in Wales, it’s Sunday, Martin is halfway up a route and it’s raining. Life I’m told has it’s little certainties and as Angela pointed out “It always rains on Sundays in Wales”. The rain has now turned to hail. Sarah is now making her way up the route and the other group of EGCC stalwarts, egged on by Steve, are making there way up another route. Just to add a little spice the wind has strengthened so that the face is being shotblast with ice. Just before I ask the question “What the F**K are we doing here the rain stops and Ian, kitted out for a cold wet Welsh V.Diff in winter (walking boots, layers of fleece and a goretex with the hood pulled so tight that only his glasses are visible) starts climbing. Steve comes over to offer Ian some encouragement in his own special way, Ian promptly slips and we all point and laugh. The weather finally gives us it all and we retreat to the cars, except Dave who has his rope stuck on and exposed face, with a hangover, in the middle of a hail storm.
The day before most of us had made our way up the North Ridge of Tryfan. It was cold, a little cloudy and there was snow on the high ground. At the top the two groups met up and slagged of Derek and John for going to the Alpine Club symposium and Steve showed us that real men do it in trainers (5.10 trainers with stealth rubber, but trainers all the same). Once down we warmed ourselves in the pub and waited for the main event: The Annual Meal.
Barney had organised the chefs, one legged Ken and Perry, to cook the now traditional curry. He’d also promised to provide most of the entertainment. Ian on the other hand was wondering what would be responsible for his now traditional collapse. Part one of the entertainment was a huge bottle of Helium which had written on the side “Do NOT deliberately inhale this gas”. Being sensible, well balanced human beings we totally ignored this and spent the next hour or so talking in squeaky voices and collapsing in fits of giggles, whilst in the corner others competed in a highly stressful game of Jenga.
Ken and Perry’s curry went down a treat, as Ken said “I like silence during a meal, it means the food is good”. So far Ian was still conscious, what had gone wrong? and then, behold, Vodka Jelly! Little cubes of solid Vodka to round off the meal.
After a spot of asteroid spotting and space debris recollection (you really had to be there, needless to say names and details have been withdrawn to protect the guilty) we retired to the sitting room to pass the port (amber fizzy port that comes in a tin). It was time for the speeches. Barney took a big breath of Helium and stood up ....
“Friends, Romans, Climbers, unaccustomed as I am to public speaking, I would like to say that, by the powers invested in me by the state of inebriation, that you lot are the best group of people that I have climbed with. I’m off to Australia now so if you fancy popping over to my place next year we can do the Annual Meal down under”.
Pete
Barney on: First aid First take a ball point pen ..... |
For most of us climbing in Northumberland is not an option, but with Sandy's relocation to Edinburgh this became a possibility not to be missed. The crags are sandstone, although nothing like those in the South but more like gritstone with solid protection, and they harbour some classic routes.
Typical of the area are those to be found at Bowden Doors, which we visited in September. Tigers Wall**, for example, an 11m 5a VS, offers a tough non-protectable start over a short overhang then onto a rounded flake. A friend here does wonders for the confidence to tackle the layback which leads to a horizontal break. Then the crux - how to get over the rounded series of boulders leading to the top? There is an ashtray hold high up, fortunately, but it takes some exposed grasping to get to it. All in all a fine climb with strategically placed jugs. Then there is First Leaning Groove** (10m), which at HVS 5a is a great little climb. The first part is a relatively straightforward pull up to a very slim crack, just suitable for one or two thin fingers. With a No 1 rock jammed sideways into the lower part of the crack the stretch to the next horizontal break line requires expert smearing on the steep slab, and a certain degree of boldness. Once again a friend in the break line gives confidence for the energetic pull over to finish. Then you could try Main Wall** (15m), a 5b HVS which offers some interesting route finding up steep rock, but I will leave you to discover this for yourself.
Everything considered, if you do find yourself up Northumberland way don't forget to take your climbing gear - you wont regret it!
Derek
The Karrimor International Mountain Marathon is a navigation exercise, organised in mountainous country and involving an overnight remote camp. The event is competitive and teams (of 2) have to be self sufficient for the duration of the event.
I had long wanted to try the KIMM and in June persuaded Derek that he did too. The real drive to compete was to get a KIMM car park sticker, very high pose value in the right (/wrong) circles. Derek's extreme age would give our team "Veteran" status and extra points. We weren't successful on the initial ballot for places but got a reserve place, which came two weeks before the event, now we had to go through with it!
Early Saturday 24th October found us driving to the Howgills as the weather forecaster gave gale warnings and warnings of severe weather ahead. What had we done?
The event organisation was extremely good and we were soon evaluating routes to the overnight camp, which would allow us to collect lots of high value checkpoints. Our journey to the first two checkpoints was uneventful (if wet).
At the second checkpoint things took a turn for the worse, the map was dropped and it blew into a deep pool and promptly sank. Never trust a veteran! Without a map and becoming increasingly concerned about the weather making our planned route over the tops to the campsite non feasible we decided to take a low level valley route which was longer but safer, although the stream crossings were decidedly dodgy in their swollen state.
We eventually got to the campsite 44 minutes late and incurred enough time points to virtually eliminate our points score. Many teams were withdrawing from the event. The electric storm over the campsite and water leaking into our too hastily pitched tent suggested maybe we should join them but Derek's culinary skills (clams, cous-cous and chocolate) reignited the competitive spirit, after all we were representing EGCC!
An early rise (it was drier outside the tent than in it!) saw the wind died down and no rain. Things were looking much better.
Our route choice for Sunday was excellent and the next four hours flashed by in a blaze of checkpoints, downhill jogs and uphill slogs. We finished 15 minutes early and guessed we might have made enough progress to exceed the minimum points total to be awarded a certificate.
Results were posted on the Internet a couple of days later and showed us coming 63rd out of 73 finishers (but over 300 starters). We would recommend the event but it is very demanding.
Sandy
Barney on : Army Life Its all about carrying heavy weights long distances |
The Cauldron must be one of the more impressive parts of the Pembrokeshire coast, with lots of E-graded climbs rising from just above the sea. Not normally the kind of place for me, especially since it starts with a pretty committing abseil some 150’ down from the cliff top. But there is a significant weakness that allows wimps like me to enjoy the exposure and excitement of this ethereal place. This weakness is called Toil and Trouble, a one star VS which takes the prominent deep-cut fault line at the back of The Cauldron and facing out towards a high arch and the sea. With climbing restrictions lifted, and a benign sea, Steve and I decided to give it a go. The abseil was a piece of cake, landing us safely on top of a dry ledge and well out of harm’s way. From here the immensity of The Cauldron and its multiplicity of hard routes could be enjoyed in relative safety while we stood below our planned exit route. Having found the area of solid rock just above the belay I led off on the first pitch, traversing left to gain the crack proper after about 30’. Armed with plenty of large hexes this crack is easily protected, albeit rather strenuous, and exits onto a large pillar forming the intermediate belay. Taking over the lead, Steve led through to follow the crack continuation to the top. Once again large hexes came in handy and all the difficulties were easily protectable. A really great route to complete and highly recommended for the confident VS leader, although leaving the abseil rope in place is advisable - just in case!!
Derek
Barney on : Teaspoons to insert it in your nose aim for your earlobe |
Martin lead the first route - Flying Buttress. A slab with ripples and grooves for your feet got you to the crux. A move that depended on:
a. Reaching a hold two feet above.
b. Trusting your feet to stick on a small slab.
c. Doing a move that swung your bum around in mid-air.
We did all this with varying degrees of finesse and nipped up the
rest of the route with the aid of the “monster jugs”
that the guide book had promised. Martin had rigged the belay so
that neither Mary nor I could finish the route with a spectacular
belly flop finish, that was just plain unfair!
It was decided I would lead next - Flying Buttress Gully. I clambered up to the crack on the opposite face. A massive crack, which was fine but a 45 degree angle which wasn’t. I put the most massive hex I had ever seen in it and up I went climbing sideways and along rather than up! A few more moves returned me to the more usual vertical position! and I finished at the most windproof, snug belay on Stanage. Martin seconded, followed by Mary who provided the only flying on this buttress, just as she said “no I don’t need any slaaaaaack”.
The final route, Garden Wall. Martin lead with some tricky manoeuvres involving jamming legs and arms into the cracks and heaving yourself up. All was fine until the final piece of protection. Given the location, I agree it needed to be sound, but really firmly wedged? I resorted to an almighty whack with a massive hex and not surprisingly, the nut was removed. A cold but excellent day complete with bumps, cuts and grazes to prove it.
Sarah.
A really, really shitty drive on my tod through pissing rain and M1 carnage closely followed by a wrestle with a flapping tent in the pissing dark and even more pissing rain. I was so pissing well pissed off when I arrived at Calver I could have screamed “PISS !!#!!*?” at the top of my voice.
Luckily I didn’t.
Waking to find Mark squelching around the field and Newal and Phillipa shacked up in the back of a very blue, freshly imported Chevrolet pickup truck thing complete with roof attachment, the clouds and wind were ominous and the prospect of a good days climbing somewhat remote. However, once Dave Tilley turned up we were off to Froggatt with the intention of climbing until it rained then to find an indoor wall.
The clean cut V.Diff of Trapeze: felt OK although I had intended the 4c direct finish (too little recent climbing, too much wind and the sudden desire to work up the grades gradually). The Severe striking corner of Green Gut: climbed it like a tosser but got up it alright. The steep but juggy Hard Severe Terrace Crack: yeah felt good, starting to get smoother. The VS 4b Sunset Crack: a good solid lead by Dave. The VS 4c twin cracks of the short sharp Holly Groove: Mmm yummy.
Finally, with a good mornings worth of climbing done, my damning predictions of rain between each climb came to fruition and it pissed down so we headed off into Sheffield to try and find The Foundry... we couldn’t find it, it was closed anyway, the traffic was horrendous and there was no parking at The Edge because of a sell out crowd at the football ground - Nightmare. Still nothing some good grub, beers, general merriment could put right - and the sky had cleared !!
Dust off your crampons, sharpen up those axes - this winters going to be so ‘ard it’ll wither the goolies off ya grandmother. Minus two in the middle of October ?? YeeeeaaahhhHHHHH!
A slower start to the day due to the chilly willies and the barfing Mark but finally back to Froggatt again, leaving Mark to unknowingly slumber in the fumes of a litre of petrol leaking in the boot of my car and predictably not really getting to feel much better !!
The rest of us started on Slab Recess Direct, cold fingers but blue sky and sunshine warming the spirit. Mmm what to do next.
“What grade to you do at the wall ?”
“5a, 5b”
“Oh good !”
“Oh dear”
I’d had my eye on a very striking line up a buttress and airy arete at the far end of the crag, it was just about the only climb in the sun and I fancied a go....Chequer’s Buttress HVS 5a in my old compilation guidebook.
An easy ramp and couple of good nuts then a step left onto the steep wall to reach awkwardly for a diagonal hand crack and No1 friend. Step up and left again to a higher hand crack and a No2 friend typically placed in the best bit of hand hold. Worming fingers around next to the friend you step up and left again to grasp the arete. Feet carefully placed so you don’t barndoor into space you carefully work upwards to grab a perfect jug. A quickly placed nut and your on your way. Amazing stuff and nice and smooth into the bargain; the “full bag ‘o mashins” as my Yorkshire colleagues would have put it.
It really felt good to push myself on the live end once again. Especially when I found out that the new guide graded it as HVS 5b !
Both Newal and Phillipa climbed smoothly and with great style much to the appreciation of the 50 or so onlookers, walkers, bumblies and photographers. Bizarre.
Mark tottered queasily along having by pure luck avoided all smokers in the area (and suddenly feeling a whole lot better for the fresh air), to find us basking in the sun having just finished Broken Crack. At 4b an outrageous layaway and impending hand jamming crack, stonking jams drawing blood from all but the truly masochistic (i.e. me).
Top of Mark’s tick list was Strapiombante an overhanging wall with good rightward then leftwards cracks leading to a long reach left and blinding mantleshelf from full stretch and nowt for the feet - an E1 5b of course.
No breakfast, no lunch and dicky guts had taken its toll. None the less it was a truly gritty attempt with all the gear going in and a dramatic tug at the mantleshelf followed by a graceful swing on the rope - so close. My whimpering arms just about managed to polish it off - speed was definitely of the essence - but there was no way I’d have done it if I had had to lead it properly. Mark then followed up taking the gear out and cruised it !! Lets call it a combined ascent !
Trevor Clarke