Extracts from Newsletter 22
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For those of you lucky enough to have frequented "Pembroke" you will know that 8 measly letters are just not enough. With the definitive guide book running into 2 full volumes you begin to get an idea of the scale of things. Then glancing at the number of "starred" routes, the realisation that this "IS" somewhere very special starts to sweep over you. Like a bitter drinker going to Yorkshire the mouth begins to water.
Those aquatinted with the quality and number of gritstone routes in the peaks can translate this to sea cliffs at Pembroke.
So what I’m trying to say is that it’s a phenomenal place, and why I have not been taken there before in my 3-½ years of climbing does not compute. I’ve possibly been climbing with the wrong sort, larger drinkers and the like. So why is it so good? Well, the quality of the routes, the length of the routes, the exposure, the intimidating faces, the sea, the scale and the beauty.
When we arrived in the early hours of Saturday 15th August ’98, after a 4 hour drive from Crawley, we came across the mandatory head torched pub frequenter and camper in a dark lane near Bosherton.
"Can ya tell us where the camp site is?" we
forwarded.
"Wot, the ‘climbers’ camp site" he
questioned.
"Yeh".
"That entrance there, just behind you".
We had covered 250 odd miles without a wrong turn only to ask directions 10 yards from the destination, blimey, we’re good at navigation.
Just managing to negotiate the over tight entrance we enabled stealth mode and pitched in what must have been the last space just not big enough for a tent! It was busy. (Therefore must the right place, -- right?)
Next day breakers at dawn and eagerly away to the cliff’s at St. Governs Head
Gary led up "ARMY DREAMERS" HVS/5a *** 75 feet.
Mark equalled with "FRONTLINE" HVS/5a ** 110 feet.
Gary raised with "CLEAN HAND BLUES BAND" E2/5b ** 80
feet.
Mark back at "TACTICIAN" HVS/5a ** 110 feet.
Gary finished off with "THE ARROW" E1/5b *** 130 feet.
Notice how many "stars" there? By the way the horizontal spacing between these route was around 75 yards and there’s still 20 starred routes within that boundary to come back and do.
Over lunch we had a show we will never forget. To see good climbers on hard routes "LIVE" is a rare event. We watched 3 ‘Rock Gods’ climbing E4 and E5’s with the style and comfort of an Aston Martin ticking over at 70 mph on the M1. Later that night they humbled us at the campsite, and yes we ‘did’ buy the video. The climbers were "Neil Bentley" and "Richard Heap" of the video ‘Hard Grit’.
Sunday 16th August 1998
Mark first bid with "HERCULES" HVS/5a * 110 feet.
(Deserves at least 2 *’s, but this is Pembroke)
Gary with a’flier’on "WORLD WAR III BLUES"
E1/5b * 65 feet. (Mark somehow cleaned it)
Mark "SEA MIST" HS/4a 90 feet. (The weekend toll on
strength comes apparent)
Gary "BREAKING WIND E1/5b/PINK UN HVS/5a (combination lead
of the two)
Mark followed up "BREAKING WIND". (Always a good way to
finish the weekend I thought!)
Mark Holmes
I, Famous Pierre, say you Anglish rock grimpers, you are all perverts. Avec your metal sex toys dangling from your flabby waists. You disgust moi. Stuffing little bits of metal into your small slimey ‘oles in le rock and calling it protection. HA! You need protecting from yourselves. Le true way is to use the nice, clean, shiney bolts. I tell you zis but you do not listen. I take some of you to ‘edbury Quarry. I show you ze routes wiz ze proper names like “Goddamh Sexual Tyrannosaurus”. I make you climb ze routes of ze grades zat you can only dream of in your sad wet ‘hand placed’ protection dreams. And ‘ow do you repay me. Wiz fine wine and food? Wiz la beautiful womens? NON. You go and climb some chossy pile of merde. You are le grand perverts, tout le monde.
F.P
`Could it be anything to do with John Temple' I was asking myself? The last time that he was in the Caucasus I seemed to remember that they had a little problem with Russian border guards, but this was Georgia for heavens sake! Beautiful mountains, brilliant weather, friendly people and all that, so what was going on? It all started just after breaking camp on the first trip out. `Marmots' I said, as a black furry thing appeared on top of a nearby rock. Rubbish I was told, but no better explanation was forthcoming. Suddenly all was revealed. No, quite right - they weren't marmots since one carried a Kalashnikov, the second a rifle of some sort, and both wore balaclavas. `Trouble brewing without doubt', I heard John say - and he was right. As one guy circled the camp the other took up a position near the rock. Just to convince us a shot rang above our heads and the next moment we all admitted defeat and raised our hands. It looked as though we were about to be robbed at best; at worst we dared not think. $150, four cameras, two watches, a sleeping bag and a pair of boots later they left with another parting shot, leaving us to repack our gear and reassemble our nerves.
Two weeks or so later; a different location and different time. At first it was a loud altercation that awoke me from my dreams. I know we had been having trouble with the local cattle and pigs, but it didn't warrant the level of noise going on. Then, a bang, and all was obvious once more. Another hold up, this time at night and very dark. I opened the tent to stare along the barrel of a rifle; a masked head at the other end. The other two in the tent just stared - it was OK for them, they were not looking at the business end of a gun! The guy seemed agitated, we had little to give him having been robbed once already. Fortunately this time we had a translator, albeit in another tent. I was scared this time, but eventually he got the message and disappeared into the night. We were lucky, but Tim did not fare so well. Thinking, like us, that it was a pig routing around the tent he had politely told it to f*** off. Putting on his head torch hadn't helped either since his reward was a jab in the head from the rifle and a lost head torch; still it could have been a lot worse and we were all insured.
Well, so much for Georgia. My recommendation? Don't go; the people are friendly, but the country is very poor and there are too many armed opportunists. The next time might be more serious!
Derek
The club meet was on, the weather forecast was excellent, I arranged to meet everyone on Saturday at the campsite. I was travelling down on the Friday as I had spent the previous two weeks in the lake district with the intention of climbing and walking but the Lakes had kept up there reputation by pouring down for most of the two weeks, so with the weather in the 80’s down south I was looking forward to some sunshine and some climbing. Angela had said that they would get there about 11 am, by 1 p.m. I was giving up hope but eventually a convoy of cars came into the field, PETE dived out of the car, grabbed his kit and yes he had left his harness at home. While Pete was deciding what to do the tents were being put up (apparently more fun by headlight than in broad daylight). During this time Trevor and Suzanne turned up, Pete jokingly asked Trev if he had a spare harness, he did, an old club one complete with mould.
Once at the crag, Steve and I decided to partner up and away we went, got in a couple of good routes to warm up with Steve leading and myself seconding. After some time Steve told me about his last visit to the Roaches when he broke his wrist, I’m glad he told me this after I’d already climbed. We went over to the right of the crag, tackled the left hand route, which I found taxing but excellent. It was then that we wandered round to look at the route where Steve fell. We didn’t climb it. On the way back I decided that it was my turn to lead a climb (big mistake). I borrowed Steve’s gear and started at the base of Jelly Roll . A good start but no where to put gear, at this point I decided to come down and start again, the next I knew I was scooting down the face, I felt my right ankle snap on the way down but could do nothing about it. Once on the ground I told Steve, He thought I was joking until He saw it’s shape, a right angle to where it should be. Next thing I was surrounded by numerous burly male climbers all showing concern and care, a woman's dream but I couldn’t give a @$$*, fortunately a mobile phone was at hand. I remember being told to take off my harness and boot, the least of my concerns until somebody said that they would be cut off, I’m told that I wasn’t very polite and they were soon removed. Angela, Pete and Liam appeared, eventually an ambulance arrived and to crew appeared very out of breadth and extremely sweaty, a helicopter was ordered, this is where Angela decided she would come with me (for me or the helicopter? I never found out as there wasn’t one available). They tried the police helicopter so two squad cars were sent. The only way down was being strapped to a spinal board, not a fun experience. It must have been a sight to be seen to be believed; numerous men carrying a wailing woman down a steep hill. All the climbers thought they would ache from their climbing effort. Oh no! It was the weight session of their life that did it. Eventually we got to the ambulance and I thought, at least, I could get some gas and air (which run out on the way to Stoke). The drive to Stoke City took about an hour. I think I fell at about 4pm and we arrived at A&E at about 7.15pm. After I was admitted and anaesthetised I don’t remember a lot more until I awoke and was told They were going to operate. A screw was put into a disintegrated, fractured talous bone and 8 days later, I was allowed to go home. During the time I was in hospital a beautiful bouquet of flowers arrived from the Club, what a wonderful surprise. I managed to get them home safely and they lasted for ages. THANK YOU.
I’ve now got to be non-weight bearing for 3 months and who knows how long I’ll be off work. I’d love to have seen the farmer’s face the next morning when he was trying to wake me at 7.00am for his money, shaking my tent!
All that was lost that weekend was my pride, a sock, my presence at the BBQ, oh! and a french loaf and a tube of Primula cheese, (ask Pete). On the positive side I think I made some friends.
A huge ‘Thank you’ to Angela for being there throughout and not forgetting Liam, Steve, Graham, Pete and everybody else who was there.
Final thought. I’m glad I know this side of the event how accident prone Steve is; he drove my car home! In all fairness, very safely.
Karen.
Yet again dear friends unto the breach I go.
I really like gritstone (NOT), especially the way it rips my hands into tattered ribbons and spits me into space on a regular basis. But I put that all to one side to have a ‘nice’ (ha) ‘early’ (double ha) ‘start’ (with cherries on) at the Hathersage cafe for a non greasy breakfast (what!!).
Gritstone, Gritstone everywhere and not a bolt to clip.
We hit the crag at the crack of noon with Eddie keen to climb everything and anything whilst I was content with any of the low grade classics and being hauled up all the hard stuff and pretending to be a proper second who can actually climb.
A jam a jam my kingdom for a Jam.
We left the crag late ready to settle down to a little tent pitching, a vast amount of beer, some food and enjoyable coversation until Eddie realised that his tent was on the floor ... in Caterham PANIC!!. Once the recriminations had died down Eddie did the decent thing and found a B&B. Of course I protested, very quietly, but Eddie insisted that as it was his mistake he would pay and who am I to complain?
The next day after a comfy and stress free evening Eddie once again did hard things (sort of HVS like things) and I did the easier things (sort of HVD like things) until mummy said it was time for tea.
Martin.
Well, with a name like that and an appearance to match it just had to be done. This fine 80' VS, 4c at Carn Guthensbras is a classic in its grade. Climbing up a short wall leads to a broad shelf from which the `cornflake' can be inspected at close range. A large ear-like protrusion high on the face, it looked rather forbidding, and very strenuous - which is what it indeed turned out to be! A number 2 friend behind the lower end of the lobe was all the protection that I was likely to get in before grappling with the main curve of the `cornflake' and the rounded top, but this was just enough to inspire the necessary confidence to commit to the rounded lay-back followed by a desperate lunge for the top. Quite exciting really, but certainly a relief to be on the belay. Barney followed with panache, faltering only when he almost forgot to unclip the friend on the home straight, and resulting in the release of a little more blood to add to that already yielded on earlier climbs. Another of the many excellent routes completed on the coast between Chair Ladder and Land's End, and all to the exclusion of other climbers - not bad for a Bank Holiday weekend!
Derek
Lands end, Pordenanck Point.
With a combination of EG climbing club and Roger’s gear it was time to get some leading experience. Chopper chimney (V.Diff) to the “tut tuts” of the onlookers “Should have got more gear in” but I couldn’t find anywhere to put it! Roger and Tom followed up. Roger then led Economist Climb (V.Diff) but we economised and only did two of the four pitches before the overwhelming desire for an ice cream took over. Meanwhile Derek and Barney were storming up every climb going with Barney winning the “most grazes in unusual places” competition. Do you really use your earlobes to climb?
Chair Ladder
A tricky descent which the nature lovers were in no hurry to do and preferred to watch the seals and shark. Pete and Derek suggested I try Draculus (S), so up I went in a zigzag manner trying to get as much protection in as possible. What pride to hear that Sarah had trouble getting a piece of gear out. A short clamber to the abseil rope, I slipped then noticed blood, then saw the deep cut in my leg. The EGCC now well practised, weekend trip to casualty was put into operation in Pete & Angie’s car to Penzance hospital. While the doctor and Nurse argued the length of the cut (a tape measure was produced to settle the wager) a far more serious case arrived in casualty - a man with green hair and a very red face!
Thanks to Derek for the hanky, Barney for the first aid, Mike for the lift to the car park, salty seadog coast watch for bandage and water, Pete and Angela for the ambulance and afternoon tea, Tom for holding my hand, Roger, Sarah and everyone for carrying back our gear.
Isobel Allan
Imagine the scene: peace, solitude, sun and sea, with the occasional bobbing seal and even more occasional basking shark. The Caribbean you ask? No, Cornwall during the August Bank Holiday on the EGCC away meet. Most of the group chose to visit the less frequented, but nonetheless excellent, cliffs between Land's End and Chair Ladder where we were the sole contenders for the scores of available routes. With clear blue skies, the sun on our backs for much of the weekend, and secure granite to climb on, what more could one ask? But peace was shattered on the bridging problem of Razor, a 5a HVS taking the obvious diedre at Carn Barra. At first a small whimper, maybe even a sigh, as the second was beginning to make their presence felt. No, no, a mistake, perhaps it was a curse, or worse still a whinge that could be heard emanating from below. If pained facial expressions can be relied on the grunts were surely not utterances of bliss. Perhaps it was the light rain that was now filtering in that had induced such comments from an otherwise placid and contented second? But again no. A forceful `That was everything I hate about climbing!!', clearly suggested that this fine route had not met with favour and that it had only be seconded in deference to my wish to lead. So who could this disgruntled second be? Answers please on a post card should be sent to EGCC, care of the Ship Inn, East Grinstead, and will be treated in the utmost confidence.
Derek
| Clue : It wasn’t Angela or Derek and everybody but Pete had gone home ..... Doh |