Extracts From Newsletter 15
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A quick report to make everyone envious given the appalling weather of the last month (June).
Graham, Danielle, Suzanne and myself spent a week towards the end of May in the sun soaked forests of Fontainebleau, climbing circuits of quality as well as quantity and of course enjoying the gastronomique cuisine de la barbyq and cheapo vino.
For the benefit of those who have never enjoyed the relaxed climbing of Fontainebleau, the circuits consist of a number of boulder problems, typically 25 to 80, which are linked together by painted dots and arrows. It sounds a bit corny but it really is great fun as, depending on the location and route colour that you choose, you can add as much exposure and difficulty as you wish. We tended to go for the less exposed circuits. For example, a visit to L'Elephant, a massive group of 30'+ boulders to do a polished 'Orange' (4c/5a) circuit, put the heeby geebies right up us and sent us scampering around the corner to a 'Yellow' easy peezy.
A soft, sandy landing from a 15' problem is much more like it. One memorable route was Roche aux Sabots, a blue circuit with problems varying from 5a to 5c - all clean cut, cracking moves with some occasional exposure thrown in for good measure. Slabs, cracks, overhangs, traverses.... you name it.
One accident only - on day seven, the last day. Suzanne's hands came off whilst making a layaway move at head height. I made a grab at her which made little or no difference and she sustained a thwacking bruise to the rump and a knock on the back of the head. As I fell over I saw Suzanne bash her head - ouch, that must have hurt - I thought, but then looked to where I was falling, only to see a boulder rushing towards my tender crown - that made my eyes smart !!
No serious damage luckily, although the return journey was a little uncomfortable for Suzanne - bearable only with the good buttock perched on a strategically placed cushion.
Fontainebleau always used to be the venue for a club trip each year, and whilst 7 days of pure blue sky cannot be guaranteed, it does have a unique atmosphere and tons of outstanding climbing - I've been going there for the last 8 years and there's still loads to do.
How about a trip in May next year ?
Trevor Clarke
This was my first Meet with the Club, so a forecast of "patchy drizzle clearing by Saturday afternoon" in North Wales meant the emphasis might be on social activities rather than climbing. Colin, Steve Kirby (another new member) and I set off mid-afternoon and after much simulated road rage, which became more focused (and racist) as we entered Wales, we arrived before dark, only to be attacked by midges. Quick escape! Pub! Warnings that the Robinsons Bitter might lead to headaches and other complications went unheeded.
Morning arrived, and unsurprisingly, the patchy drizzle hadn't quite cleared. A monster feed at Pete's but no sign of any others, so onto Tremadog, where the rock was, strangely, staying just about dry even though the air was moist with drizzle. We did Christmas Curry (S**) in two pitches and then Steve led Oberon (VD) as his first ever lead. Now afternoon, we headed back to the mountains from which the drizzle was due to clear. Hmm...how strange...it's actually pissing down in Ogwen, as it is in Llanberis. We wandered around the slate quarries for a while, then went back to the campsite. By this time a dangerous situation was developing - 5.15 pm, nothing to do and the pub very close to hand. Time for some serious Alpine Style festering - Steve and I managed to score a near perfect 10 by doing virtually nothing for two hours, save for sporadic cries of "Ha! Got the bastard", as another midge bit the dust. Colin cheated by eating bacon butties (he always does, it would seem) and having a shower (he'd only been away a day!)
Eventually we cracked and headed off for the main item on the agenda - The Vaynol Arms. Almost everybody gathered for a good session; Ian, Shirley, Nick, Alison, Martin, Marcus and ourselves, with some drinking more seriously than others. A few had done some climbing (albeit on the Beacon Climbing Wall) but probably the most constructive activity had been a walk over Y Garn by Shirley and Bidget.
The next morning dawned dry, but soon turned to rain. Colin jettisoned the contents of his stomach somewhere in a field and was unable to face Pete's. (This brings to mind an interesting quote by George Elliot, "...his happiness had the effect of mountain air; his eyes were bright and the words came without effort." But you need to remove 'happiness' and substitute 'vomit' for 'words'.) My stomach was also a little dodgy. The others didn't seem to have firm plans, but we headed off to Tremadog for another spectacular day's climbing, and some star-spotting. Yes, at Eric's cafe I had the dubious pleasure of sitting on a toilet seat warmed by Chris Bonnington himself. Wow, what a *** tick! Steve was envious indeed.
Onto our route, Valeries Rib (HS**). I led the first pitch, up to the fortuitously large ledge before pitch two. Colin headed for the top while Steve had the misfortune to be still on the ledge with me, tucked up (minus harness) at its left-hand extremity. ("Look away Steve!" - this was real Alpine training for him.)
Even though the rock was dry, our team lacked drive and so headed home to recover. But lessons were learnt from the weekend - 1. Drink Robinsons Bitter in moderation only; 2. Do not climb with me if I have ignored lesson 1; and 3. Stand well back if Colin has ignored 1.
Rupert Woods
'O.K Computer' - Radiohead - I won't say anymore, just buy it! I've got tickets to the gig at the NEC Birmingham in November (gloat) and a T-shirt. Have you recently bought a ½ size Wild Country Friend Batch-639? If you have send it back now, it may be a bit dodgy. Alison, I've got your nuts! (or one of them anyway). We found it on Climbers Club Ordinary route at Dewerstone. It just fell out, didn't even use the nutkey... just kidding. Well, there are no more episodes of ER to watch on Wednesday evenings now so I might start going down the wall again. Apparently they've turned it into some kind of surreal hamster cage.
You won't believe this but on Saturday morning it was raining. Although opinions varied as to which activity could be enjoyed in the prevailing conditions, one thing was certain - a plate of grease and a pint of tea in Pete's was essential. Shirley, her Mum Bridget and Marcus wanted to bag some 3000'ers (Bridget of course being famous for her ascent of Snowdon with a fractured leg, torn ligaments and damaged cartilage - eat your heart out Joe Simpson). Nick and his recently wedded bride Alison favoured indoor climbing, Famous Piere and myself tagged along.
The Beacon Wall (not far from Llanberis) is excellent. Leading walls up to 40' high with roofs and overhangs. Try dangling from a jug in the roof with a coil of rope in your mouth as you try to clip that swinging extender (isn't it strange the way your fingers uncurl when that burning threshold in your forearms is reached) WEEEEEE BOOOIIINGGG gosh that was fun. This type of climbing induces the psychological reverse from climbing outside. I was actually enjoying falling off more than the climbing. We left when I found that I didn't have enough strength to squeeze my fingers round my chalk bag.
Imagine my surprise when we returned to the campsite to find Shirley, my mother in law and Marcus siting outside our tents looking like drowned rats, surrounded by devastation and no car. Had a warm and wet hurricane swept by and taken my car? No, the answer was far more sinister. Wet, Wet and Wet had driven to Ogwen, climbed Y Garn and straight lined it back to the campsite. O.K, but why is the tent surrounded by plastic bags and debris? This was all that remained of our food supply. The culprit? A chicken had been seen malingering outside our tent early that morning and if I ever find the fat bastard he'll be guest of honour at Richard's Barbecue!
And what of the others? Colin, Rupert and Steve decided to gamble on the old " if it's raining in Llanberis it must be dry at Tremadog" theory. It worked for them. Damp ascents of Christmas Curry and the like were made and a good time had by all. Much beer was consumed in the Vanoyl Arms. This spawned talk of the climbs that would be lead tomorrow. At the last count we were looking to solo Lord of the Flies with one arm tied behind our backs.
Morning dawned with the realisation that the best I could manage was the Betws y coed gear shop traverse. For those of you that don't know, it is useful to wait until you go up to Wales before you make any major gear purchases. Climber and Rambler at the top of the High Street will give you a 10% discount just for being a member of the E.G.C.C (if you have your card!). In addition, they will give you a 20% discount if you spend over £200, this can be achieved fairly quickly if you go in group. I don't want to be accused of favouritism or corruption but I don't know of any other shop offering a better deal. So remember, that's Climber and Rambler for all your best climbing deals. Climber and Rambler Buy their stuff! (For the sake of impartiality we would point out that 'stuff' is available at other retail outlets and that your home is at risk if you do not keep up repayments or other loans secured against it.) Suffice to say that that many eagerly awaited goodies were snapped up.
Meanwhile, in Tremadog Marcus and Martin were zipping up Oberon and others culminating in what sounds like an epic (take a look at Martin's report). When we arrived at Eric's there was a 'Celeb.' in the car park. None other than Sir Chris of Bonnington. I was going to ask him if he wanted to become an honorary member of the E.G.C.C but he slipped away before I could corner him. We spent the afternoon at the small crag at the top of the main cliffs mucking about on unknown climbs (I've never been able to identify this crag in the guide book, does anyone know what it's called?)
Most embarrassing moment? Shirley asking me whether the cafe was called 'Joe Brown's' as Eric Jones was collecting tea cups on the table behind us!
Ian
Saturday - rain, rain, rain, rain, blah, blah etc. Some decide to try Tremadog; some go walking, but I, (Famous Pierre - and I'm not telling that joke again ... not until the Annual Dinner, anyway), and Chairman Ian head indoors for a 5 hour pump out at the Beacon Climbing Wall. WOW!!
Evening - at The Vanyol Arms where only the Guinness is safe (ask Rupert). Sunday - Not much rain, so it's off to Tremadog. Ian, Shirley and Bridget go over the top of Pant Ifan to some smaller crags. Meanwhile Marcus and myself attack Craig Bwlch Y Moch.
Oberon (VD) was located and climbed without difficulty. However, Boo Boo (HVD) was confusing, especially when the overhanging boulder and tree, descibed in the guidebook, no longer exists, so we try and fit the guidebook description to a neighbouring E3! Needless to say, our attempt of this route ended in failure, due to fear once our error had been realised. Eventually Boo Boo was ascended without incident.
We then turned our attentions to Rienetta - or not, as the case may be. Vague guide book descriptions meant that Marcus started pitch one of Merlin (VS), with I, Famous Pierre ascending pitch 2, with an awkward (terrifying) traverse (protected with reasonable Friend placements but resulting in mega rope drag) to finish on Rienetta. The final move was terrifying involving a hand traverse and a desperate belly flop onto a 'could have been bigger' ledge and relative safety. It was a this point I realised that Reinetta is actually hidden by a shrubbery and, therefore or because of, is rarely visited. A climber on pitch 3 of Merlin quiped, " I dunno what your on mate, you'd better give it a name." Marcus led the stonking, final pitch brilliantly which may have been P2 of Salamander (HVS 5A) or something much worse!
So after off route epics at Lands End with Pete + Martin M + Angie + Ali; and a minor balls up at The Dewerstone with Barney, I'm gaining some sort of reputation for misinterpreting the guidebooks. So if you ever climb with me, make sure you know the route!
Martin 'Famous Pierre' Upfold
Well, it was going to be a trip to Tremadog, but a groundswell of opinion (ie Sandy) suggested that we should go to Llanberis instead. With rain stopping play on Saturday, four of us (Sandy, Nick, Rob and myself) toured North Wales looking for fine weather. Unfortunately the world seemed to be in the same depression and this turned out to be a tour of cheap eating places - Sandy seems to have an infinite capacity for bacon sandwiches. We at least know where Gogarth is now, even though it was so misty that even the cliff edge was invisible!
On returning to Pete's Eats we dragged Colin and Rupert out (they had done the Ordinary Route on the Idwal Slabs) and struck out for the Beacon climbing wall. Well recommended is this wall, with some terrific overhangs and high walls; its also very cheap.
Sunday, by contrast was brilliant and Craig Dhu was waiting. Although a bit damp to begin with, Rib & Slab (250', VD), Rift Wall (200', VS), Yellow Groove (140', VS) and Petite Fleur (110', HS) soon succumbed. A really great crag within easy walking distance both of the road and the camp site, and highly recommended. Zig Zag (220', VS) was not so easily won, however, and will have to await another visit.
Derek
Classic Rock has a lot to answer for, particularly since it only records a single route on Skye and we had to climb it! In heavy mist, and having inadvertently left the correct map back in the car (oops), Sandy and I tried to decide which of the many corries we should be following in order to get straight to The Great Prow (105m, VS) on Blaven. Faulty memory, but magnificent route finding by dead reckoning (otherwise known as guesswork), got us to the summit of Blaven just in time to see the mist evaporate and the Cuillin panorama open up. From here it was just a case of traversing the ridge north until we found the route. Surprisingly it was this easy, since the Prow is aptly named and simple to spot (in clear weather). It also became obvious that we had ascended Blaven by an unusual route, once again proving the value of a map even if the magnetism of Skye makes the compass (which I did have!) useless.
Anyway, back to the climb. Having descended a steep scree slope to the foot of the Prow the route, starting at a wide overhanging chimney could not be missed. Only graded at 4c this should be a cinch and Sandy started off (leaving the 'easy' 4b pitch for me). Protection in the deep cut chimney was clearly going to be problematic, as evidenced by Sandy burrowing further and further into the gloomy depths. The odd mutter of 'that's the only way to get in any gear' could be heard far below, slightly muffled by the enclosed environment of the chimney. Eventually, with a well placed sling round a chock stone, Sandy swam - very slowly and not very elegantly - with much puffing and panting - over the crux overhang after first removing his helmet to allow his head to get through. He did develop an interesting move, however, that might be of use to other Club members should they find themselves in a similar situation. Essentially this involves bending one leg underneath the body and wedging it on the overhanging rock beneath your buttocks. By judicious twisting some people might then find it possible to put the second floating foot onto the wedged stationary foot in order to stand up. The use of hands during this manoeuvre appears to be an optional luxury. Since 'some people' did not include me I thought an alternative procedure would be called for.
Fortunately, in the desire to place gear Sandy had neglected the exposed left hand arete and it was possible to avoid the constricting chimney in this way. A wide bridge, not quite bringing tears to the eyes, allowed the crucial sling to be removed and the overhang to be surmounted. Not a solitary puff or wheeze, and I was duly proud. A short slab led to the belay from where it was my turn to lead. Only 4b rang through my head, but in the exposed situation and with the odd bit of loose rock it was difficult to be convinced. Undaunted I moved off of the vertical crack with much space appearing to my right as the ground fell away. Some bomber gear did wonders to my confidence and the lay back crack gradually receded. Before too long I had reached the top of the square cut pinnacle overlooking the descent gully and gratefully clipped the two slings left there by earlier incumbents. With time pressing on we - like many others - decided to skip the two short ungraded pitches leading to the tower top and abseiled into the void on two joined ropes. With just a few spare metres of rope this is a long descent into the unknown, but by far the best way down from what is rightly regarded as a classic route. While we continued the traverse over Clach Glas to Garbh Bheinn before returning, the length of this difficult scramble should not be underestimated and certainly makes for a fine, albeit full day out.
Derek
Depending on your view of life we started the journey early (Pete, Marcus, Martin) or late (Gary) on Saturday morning. Whatever, we arrived at Subliminal, Swanage at the same time as every other south coast climber and happily spent the rest of the sun-baked day route ticking and being entertained by peoples' noble efforts on Baboon (VS 4c). Long after the crowds had disappeared, our weary, dehydrated bodies said STOP!; find campsite; drink beer; eat food; sleep.
Eventually we located an empty campsite and dispatched Gary and Marcus (the cat strangler) to negotiate. They stepped out of the car and entered the X-Files - an encounter with the 165 year old woman and her shuffling alien companion, in a universe of obscure mathematics (£9.50 for the car plus £6 for an additional tent!)
Sunday dawned too bright and too early. The plan was formed. Dancing Ledge; just a short walk. Unless, of course, you stop in the wrong car park. Two and a half miles later we met up with Angela, Famous Pierre (Martin) and Flo.
Gary and I decided to be bronzed rock gods on the sport routes on the quarried face of the upper tier. However, I failed in my quest because 1. I burn in the sun. 2. I apply all the wrong techniques at all the wrong places. 3. I'm mortal. Gary, on the other hand was heading for minor deity status until the last route (E3 6a) claimed one back.
The others spent the day zipping up and down the 'pick you own line' of the lower crag and enjoying the weather.
Flo attempted to eat everybody's pack lunch.
We had chips before heading home.
Pete
