Extracts from Newsletter 14
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Not a club trip this but a further abuse of a borrowed company car complete with free petrol card (having just been to the Peaks for bloodied knuckles the weekend before and Alton Towers for white knuckles in the middle of that week !!!).
Three Cliff's Bay is a good introduction to the
area, with slab routes up to 26m high. This was the scene of my
first day's climbing with EGCC some 11 years ago and I really
wanted to do "Scavenger", a 3-star VS up a featureless
slab that bounds the entrance to the sea cave. After a pleasant
warm up on an HS, I dragged Suzanne off to do
"Scavenger" before the crowds - (which included my
parents !) - started queuing up. It was as great a climb as I had
remembered it, with good gear and wonderful sharply-angled holds
on the slab allowing comfortable climbing at 4b in a magnificent
position.
The next climb, "Inverted V", looked to be the biggest challenge in the area (barring an E4 nonsense climb) and at HVS 4c was a bit necky pulling through an overlap on the slab with a '00' wire for gear. Most of the group climbed a good handful of the best, starred routes and a retreat to a non-tidal crag was in order.
Just along the coast is one of those nightmare crags that is there because the guidebook tells you it's there, and you know you're in the right place because the guidebook is telling you you're in the right place - but where the f*** is it ?? Mission Impossible eat your heart out !! Our mission, should we choose to accept it, was to find Crag 'X', formerly known as Shirecombe, subsequently known as Shitecombe. After tromping up and down steep "vague" footpaths (as described in the guidebook) along the altogether too high headlands with heavy sacks on, getting hotter and more frustrated, we gave up.
However, all was not lost. After a reviving double ice-cream at a nearby shop, we set off in search of a crag situated near to the campsite, called "Boiler Slab". Keenness, in the guise of myself, managed to cajole Suzanne, Graham and Danielle for one last climb. G & D opted for a two starred HS called "Direct" whilst I lead a one starred VS - "Ayesha". In sharp contrast to the slabs, this was vertical (and on occasion overhanging) gray Limestone. Suzanne enjoyed the sharp, but generously (!) spaced holds for the hands and little if anything for the feet - pumpy and quite technical but very exhilarating. Final rays of evening sunshine as we climbed the route just capped the day perfectly.
Sunday was a pretty chilly, windy affair to start with, so getting going was a slow process. Many a cup of tea, coffee and hot chocolate was had, along with a variety of breakfast goods before we eventually set off for the Fall Bay area. We decided, after much deliberation and taking into account our lack of enthusiasm, to begin with a slightly easier, shorter route on the lower tier of the cliffs.
HA! The VS 4b warm-up routes we chose to do on King's Wall turned into a bit of a nightmare, as blood-curdingly razor sharp rock (honest) meant that things that needed to be grabbed and held onto in desperation with cold fingers, couldn't be held onto for long without the risk of severed fingers. Horrible does not suitably describe!. After a cup of coffee to steady the nerves, Suzanne, Graham and myself climbed Isis, a three star VS 4c on Fall Bay Buttress. And what a 4c ! Described in the guidebook as "top of its grade", it was sustained climbing at that grade for the whole 36m. Mentally exhausting because every move to a planned resting position turned out to not be a resting position at all. And so you climbed on, and bridged out, and pulled up, and put gear in, until the massive overhang and subsequent extremely polished hand traverse to an exposed block meant a grateful rest and gear placements before the final pull through an easier section in the roof. Totally exhausting, totally absorbing. The climb was made extra painful through a session of bashing oneself on the bonce with a suitably sized nut - both myself and Suzanne seemed to managed this feat of mastery, receiving interesting bumps in the process.
After lunch Graham and myself decided on Orasis, another classic 3-star VS, but as it was busy opted for an HVS 5a - Rhea, only two stars but a harder grade to make up for it. Magic stuff again. In contrast to Isis, this climbed a small slab to a niche, laybacked up a crack, climbed a rib and groove to the same overhang taking it at a slightly wider and hence harder point. I guess the amount of gear I put in was an indication of my fear, weak arms and mistrust of my gear placements, no, perhaps just a sign of old age !!
Trevor
Leaving for St Petrox immediately after the social meet was clearly a wise decision for Sandy and me as the long dash to Pembroke was free of the usual Bank Holiday traffic, and the camp site was uncharacteristically deserted. Moreover, we had the whole of the South Pembroke coastline to ourselves on the Friday - and made the most of it too.
In glorious sunshine (gloat) we abseiled into the Castle and were soon climbing the first of many high quality routes. Too Much Pressure, a two star route graded HVS, 5a is perhaps a bit optimistic for the first climb of the weekend, but then with Sandy leading I don't usually expect to be climbing much below this grade! Imagine my surprise then when Sandy didn't flash the route as usual, but spent a long time procrastinating over the crux move out of the half height scoop. As with all seconds, I was just beginning to feel that he was being unduly over-cautious and that I could `sort it out', when he was up, belayed and calling for me to climb. A highly strenuous crack led all too quickly to the scoop, and the cause of all Sandy's problems, as I was soon to find out. This was no mere logistical problem - it was bloody hard! Eventually, and with all the confidence of someone having a rope above, rather than below, I grasped a two-finger pocket (the only hold in sight) and lay-backed on heaven knows what to surmount the overhanging scoop. That brilliant feeling of success was followed by much panting and relief that a rest was possible before the next exertion. More expended ergs and the odd grunt or two and I soon joined Sandy at the belay to complete a really superb route more correctly graded E1, 5b - so not too bad for starters, but strangely the hardest route of the weekend!!
Derek
All was going well. Apart from a major hold up on the way up at road works on the M40, which was mainly due to rubbernecking. We, that is Pete , Angela and I (and Flo) arrived at the campsite and were able to put up the tents in the dry, which was lucky as within the hour it was chucking it down.
A rather inauspicious start to Saturday was signalled by a singular lack of any view of Hen Cloud, which was immersed in mist and damp. Plenty of time to gather ourselves and eat breakfast at a leisurely pace. Unlike Derek, Richard and Colin who, having left the south that morning, were keen to feel skin and sticky rubber against damp rock. As were newcomers Barney and Tom keen to experience the real thing. Well from thereon the day just got better and better, with the sun gradually burning away the mist and the temperature rising until T. shirts and even Derek's shorts became the order of the day.
The Roaches were well trodden by the EGCC that day with most parties doing between 7 and 10 routes on a particularly quiet day for the crag (To do with Cup Final?)
Thanks to Pete and Angela, an excellent barbecue was enjoyed by all despite the rain! A welcome lift to and from the pub rounded off a perfect day.
And so to Sunday...Again a misty start greeted us after a disturbed night of thunderstorms. It was therefore agreed that the tents could dry out and be sorted later. I had walked to the crag from the campsite the previous day but today on arrival at the crag I was knackered. So nothing to strenuous for a start and as we were all grouped on the right side of the upper tier, it seemed only natural to remain there. I teamed up with Tom who was quite happy to start on a Diff called Rib Wall. But where was it and where did it start? I still cannot confirm we were on the right route. What I can confirm is that the first opportunity to put in any pro (cos it did not feel like a Diff), was a waste of time. A small rock on wire was inserted more out of hope and to offer some sort of psychological comfort. I think I'll just test it, I recall thinking. And then - YANK - out it came. The next thing I knew I was in flight and heading rapidly for a large boulder below. Then BANG. What happened? Quick check. Yes I'm alive and oh shit, I've broken my wrist. So that was the end of the weekends climbing for me.
I understand that things become a bit subdued for the remainder of the day. I hope I didn't mess up everybody's weekend to much.
(We'll let you off this time Steve - but don't do it again!)
Stevs Harris
Four superb days were spent in sunbaked Cornwall over Easter. Graham and Trevor did their first lead climbing of the year and Suzanne, myself, Tim and Jenny were eased gently into the world of Cornish sea cliff climbing .
We spent the first day at Pordenack point where Suzanne and I were introduced to multipitch climbing by Trevor (is a "Stonking belay site" usually 1/2 foot square Trevor ? ) whilst Graham lead some routes for Tim and Jenny. This was a fantastic day. Who said sea cliff climbing was cold, wet and windy.
We moved on to Sennen the next day where Trevor and Suzanne didn't stop for breath all day , meantime Graham and myself climbed some and took a long lunch whilst admiring the climbing skills of T & S on a rather interesting little route called Dolphin Cracks. Moving on to Bosigran and then to Chair Ladder on the next two days more routes were done and more chocolate eaten and much fun was had by all.
A meet well worth the journey.
The four of us set off Friday evening for the Peak District meet. During the later part of the journey we played a rather exciting game called "Come on Trev where exactly did Derek say the campsite was ?". Finally, having asked at a local pub (it was the only place open, honest !) we found the campsite. Entertaining comment of the evening heard after all were safely tucked up in their tents was the anguished comment "I've left my rock boots at home" coming from the general direction of Nick and Sandy's tents. Nick was spotted at Outside of Hathersage bright and early the next morning shopping for boots (Nick, it has to be said, did turn rather violent when questioned as to why he was at Outside at 9.30 am).
Climbing began the next morning at Curbar Edge, adrenalin began to run as Graham attempted his first gritstone lead climb of the year tackling "Bel Ami" a rather nice VS 4b. The start above a crack marked up as the local gents, led to an interesting layback crack and then onto a rather exposed and windy arete. Trevor and Suzanne meanwhile were beavering away round the corner on a particularly lovely crack. If at Curbar , October Crack is a must, it's 7 metres of HS 4a delight - not. This was a grotty climb (in my humble opinion and I give it 1 out of 10 and I think I'm being generous - Trevor would probably agree too! - ask him !).
The day finished with a visit to Stoney Middleton - just to see what was there. This turned out to be a trip down memory lane for Trevor who apparently had forgotten all about the area. Comments of "wow, I remember this" and "oh, this is a classic" and "I did this when I was about 22" were heard all the way along the crag as he excitedly moved from one classic climb to the next. Other comments heard along the same walk were "can we go now I'm cold", "It's tea time" and "aren't the pubs opening soon" but these didn't come from Trevor funnily enough.
On Sunday we started at Froggatt. Having selected our warm up climb of the day Graham and I were vaguely humbled when a chap old enough to be my Grandfather soloed our chosen route in 30 seconds flat and downclimbed it at much the same pace. We felt much better after he told us he'd been climbing there since 1959 (see I said he was old).
We then moved on to Curbar again and found some little gems. In particular I found it rather exciting to watch Graham virtually solo a route called Amethyst (VS 4c) due to the remarkable lack of gear placements until virtually at the top. Suzanne meantime was having an equally fun time watching Trevor as he performed a similar feat on the neighbouring climb.
This section of Curbar which is two minutes walk from Froggatt is worth a visit. The area was reasonably quiet especially when compared to the bustle of Froggatt and there seems to be a fair amount to be climbed there. The only concern is the lack of belay points along some stretches of the crag. On one memorable climb the belay stretched 40 metres back along a flat and particularly boulderless area of grass and heather. Graham managed a belay in the end but Trevor hasn't stopped laughing yet !.
Another interesting set of climbs are to be found in the Deadmans Bay area at Curbar (ask Trevor what he thought of his last climb of the weekend !!!!! Photos to follow).
Good gracious, June already, it only seems like yesterday I was scraping the frost off my prize gooseberries (hold on Ian, this isn't the local gazette) I must say I like my new job as chairman. I don't seem to have done anything related to the club since my appointment, I just have an overseeing 'brief' of club activities. I haven't even done any climbing... this task has been delegated to Richard Groves (apparently I'm still leading around the VS standard and I even enjoyed abseiling at Swanage??) To fill up my spare time now that I'm not climbing I've started my own company 'Alpine Air Conditioning Ltd.' (I know it's a shameless plug but it does have the word alpine in it)
Anyway, what about climbing?
Pembroke - cold; rain; unfit. South Devon - much better.
Day 1 at Chudliegh, Richard led myself and Shirley up Inkerman Groove VS *** Eventually Richard prized him self away from the Vdiff 'Wogs' to set out on the adventurous voyage of discovery that is the traverse to the groove. When I led it last year it took me 20mins, this took Richard 30mins can anyone beat this? It is a scary traverse, and it doesn't let up. You now find yourself battling up the slightly overhanging groove with little or no opportunity to rest. An excellent lead by the Groves lad. Later in the day I thought I'd better do a bit of leading. Great Western VS*** was chosen and off I set. A traverse about half way up found me looking like 'Chad' at a mantle shelf "Wot no footholds?" It is amazing how fear kicks in at these moments, somehow I managed to haul my 13.5 stone onto the ledge and now collapsed into the corner whimpering. Next came a slab/arete which felt very exposed. Midway up it my right leg burst into its own 'Riverdance' routine, of course this is fine when your on the stage dancing with a gorgeous redhead but when you are about to rock over onto a slither of rock the width of a pencil it doesn't do much for the confidence. Physically and mentally wrecked I strapped myself into the peg belay to bring up the boy Groves. Cunningly I had agreed to let Richard lead the last pitch of 5a. After numerous attempts at the overhanging crux we decided to make a retreat leftwards to a tree ledge. "Shall we abseil off?" Richard asks sensibly. "Oh no, it's always best to avoid an abseil where possible" I say. "I'll just lead us this last little bit to the top".
If I ever say anything like this again, please just knock me out and lower me to the ground where I can do less harm.
Suffice to say this last little bit involved clambering up slabs of bramble bushes, loose rock and so much rope drag that I was wheel spinning on the final slab about 30' from my last bit of gear. Good fun though, me and Richard have vowed to have another go at it soon.
Dewerstone came next with Richard in storming form. He lead up all the great VS & HS classics in the vicinity. Of particular note, Ordinary Route to which he applied the HVS direct finish, this was an outstanding lead and left me totally washed out.
And what about famous Pierre? It is essential that this person comes to the Christmas trip. You know who you are....
Ian.
Chudleigh.....ummm.....polished somewhat. Top roped Seventh Veil Direct - no gear placements you see (5c) - helps if your over 5'1". Scary V. diff - totally smooth limestone - popping gear. Dewarstone.....Oohh nice.....GRANITE - plenty of places for gear - much happiness - much climbing - Heh, great tan. Tavistock Inn..... what a large menu and beeer - sunshine - barbecue bananananas with added melted Mars Bar - watch those calories now. Leather trousers - phwarr! My name's Kevin and I'm going to a fancy dress party. Best meet since the last one - MORE.
angie