Extracts from Newsletter 9
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It was on my 'hit list', and had been there since the time that I was at the Roaches with Paul Clayton in 1993. Sauls Crack - a strenuous HVS that had me swearing and grunting all the way to the overhang where I promptly fell off!. This time it was going to be different. I was fresh, the weather was fine, my hands were in good shape (surprisingly) and I was itching to get my revenge. I also had a strong leader in Sandy, which was handy really since neither Nick nor I had any intention of leading the route.
So we were off. Sandy led with ease, hardly stopping to put in gear, except at the overhang. This was just as well since it was getting the pro out whilst desperately hanging on that had sapped my strength last time. The first bit was relatively easy until I reached the steep crack below the overhang when I remembered the difficulties of the previous attempt. Anyway, it was less of a problem this time, just unclip my rope and clip in Nick's - easy really, and saves a lot of effort. Must remember to do this more often in future. In fact I was doing surprisingly well using this technique - until I started the overhang and in my enthusiasm left one runner still clipped below. "Bugger" I thought (or something much stronger) as I slipped back to vertical to unclip the offending runner. A quick hang on to recompose, recover my energy and all other things that one does when life gets hard, and I was back at the crux. A quick pull, a sideways move and there I was, hanging by my hands. Desperate measures needed now if I'm to succeed, and a lot of encouragement was coming from above and below to get my right leg up for the heel hook. "Heavens above", I thought as it worked! All of a sudden I was horizontal, and then upright above to offending overhang. Elated I waltzed the next bit to complete Saul's Crack and strike another objective off the list! I suppose that it will have to be the Sloth next time.
Derek 18th Oct. 1996.
"What shall we do next, Pete?"
"How about this one Steve?"
"Looks O.K. You can lead"
"Fairy snuff"
Step up and into the crack; step out and place a number 4 Hex; find the hand hold; pull up and ...
"I see your gear held then."
"Err - yes".
Step up into the crack; step out; reach up and place another hex a little higher; find the hand hold; pull up and ......
"The other one didn't stay."
"Err - No."
Step up into the crack; step out; reach up and find the hand hold; pull up and .... m o v e to t h e n e x t h o l d; JAM; place gear; wobble to the top.
"Safe!"
"I think I'll give this one a miss Pete".
And then Derek showed us how to do it with true grace and style.
