Extracts from Newsletter 8
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Once again the mad drive through France, Luxemborg, Germany, Switzerland and finally France again - all to avoid the French motorway tolls and save about £100. Still split three ways with me paying two thirds, it must be worth it! On arriving at Chamonix around midday we located Mark and his three friends at the Grand Champs campsite and had a leisurely lunch - not at all like our usual hectic rush to get to one mountain or other. Some rock climbing at Gaillands after lunch, a little beer and wine (well perhaps not really a little) and that was us done for the day. With a none too optimistic weather forecast a decision was made to acclimatise on the Brevant, The classic S ridge of Chapelle de la Gliere (400m of VD) being chosen. A good decision this as we virtually had the climb to ourselves and it is highly recommended. The predicted bad weather curtailed the other rock routes that we had planned, but it was not long before we could tackle the mountains we had on our hit list.
Trying to get to the Torino hut was the first problem since the Helibron cable car was not running. A quick nip through the Mont Blanc tunnel, however, solved that issue and Nick and I were soon on the Courmayeur cable car which conveniently terminated about 30m below the hut - must be the easiest 'walk' we have ever done! Next day we traversed the Rochefort Ridge to the Aiguille de Rochefort (4001m) with the intention of proceeding to the unfrequented Dom de Rochefort. An abortive attempt left us reascending the Aquille and returning to the Dent du Geant (4013m), which we had always considered as an alternative option. Surprisingly there where only three groups on the Dent, and they where all departing rapidly - perhaps the clouds billowing up from Italy were the reason. Nonetheless, we climbed the normal SW face (AD) after a little problem with route finding right at the start. My view that the overhang that Nick wanted to climb in plastic boots looked excessively difficult for an AD III was finally accepted when on looking down it was clear we had not finished the initial traverse. All very well leaving tat every where, but to simple souls it can cause confusion. Another surprise was that the guide book time of 1 hour for the ascent from the Salle a Manger seemed to be optimistic by a depressingly large margin. But this route is superb - the fixed rope helps (especially in plastic boots) - with high mountain exposure and magnificent views throughout. The traverse from the lower subsidiary summit to the main summit with the wobbly Madonna (perforated by numerous lightening strikes) is a late twist which needs careful forethought if you fancy leaving the summit for the comfort of the Torino hut. Fortunately, the incoming cloud delayed its arrival and we managed to return to the hut in time for the last cable car down to the fleshpots of Chamonix (not that we took advantage of its many delights).
A rest day or two - to let the bad weather pass - and we decamped for Saas Fee and the Mischabel hut. From here Nick and I climbed the NNE face of the Lespitze (4294m) in ideal conditions and magnificent views. Once again the ascent is only half the problem and you have to get back down. We chose the normal route by traversing the Nedelgat to the Nadelhorn (4327m, PD+) which is a superb rock route - mixed to start, but it does take rather a long time (4 hours for us). Descending the Nadelhorn NE ridge (PD-) rapidly brought us to the glacier and the level walk back to the hut. An absolutely brilliant outing this and highly recommended.
Moving to Tasch (the next valley along) we were wondering which of the many route on our list to try next. There was general agreement that a long hut walk was not on, so that considerably reduced our options. The final choice was a traverse of Castor and Pollux, since this could be done by taking the first cable car from Zermatt to the Klien Matterhorn, for which the only effort is parting with the multiple francs that it costs. Fully acclimatised by this time we traversed under the Breithorn and reached the summit of Castor (4228m) by the SE ridge and face (AD) in just 2 hours. The fact that it must have been well over an hour later that we left the summit reflects Nick's wish to visit each of the multiple tops that Castor boasts. One consolation, however was the perfect knife edge ridge that leads from the main summit to the NW top, which is not to be missed and offers brilliant photo opportunities. Back at the col we ascended Pollux (4029m) by the rocky SE ridge (PD I/II). From here we descended via the WSW ridge (PD I/II) to begin the long plod back to the Klien Matterhorn.
Moving back to Chamonix for more rests we pondered what to do next. The Aiquille Vert came to mind, ascending by the well known Whymper Couloir. Taking the Montenvers tramway we ascended the Valley Blanche in somewhat less than favourable weather (supposed to be good the next day, so need to be in position), making a real meal out of route finding in the mist. We guessed something was wrong when near the left branch to the Couvercle hut we seemed to be spending excessive time wandering back and forth to cross the enormous open crevasses that where aligned perpendicularly to our path. Rechecking the map our mistake was clear and we traversed off left to find the extensive iron ropeways that led towards the hut. On arrival the guardian seemed somewhat concerned about our plan (stonefall is always a problem on the Aiquille Vert and the weather had been very mixed) so out came the maps again. A change of plan and the next day we climbed the rocky SE face of the Aiquille du Moine (3412m, PD), ignoring the fact that our only technical gear was designed for ice and not rock. Moreover everybody else was climbing in rock boots, while we only had plastics! However apart form one deidre, that really required smearing techniques, the climb was fairly straight forward. Had we taken the easier route followed by all those properly equipped it would have been easier still! There were magnificent views from the summit, particularly of the Aiquille Vert and the Grandes Jorasse. We followed another party that clearly knew the quickest route in order to get back to the hut.
So ended another successful Alpine trip, which proved once again that plans are needed before leaving the UK, but they have to be flexible to make the most of the conditions available.
Derek 1/9/96
"I've never climbed anything with an 'E' number in it.". It was an innocent remark I made to Barcode as we sat in the Marisco Tavern on Saturday night.
"O.K, harness done up, screwgate done up......, o.k harness done up... yes, o.k... come on then... o.k, that belay looks a bit... nah, o.k harness, screwgate... oh God here we go!". Trying to delicately walk backwards down a 45 degree grassy slope I edge towards the zawn, with all the grace and poise of a new born giraffe on acid. I reach the 'choss' face that makes up the top of this void I'm about to lower this mortal, breakable body into. 300ft of black rope snakes awkwardly down through the overlaps and overhangs to the boulder beach below. "O.K harness done up, screw.... yes! just get on with it Waghorn!". Trying hard not to disturb the loose arrangement of rocks and mud that my feet are trailing down I manage to dislodge a small boulder. "Below!", I watch in stunned silence as the granite missile hurtles on it's chaotic and violent journey to join it's tide worn companions on the beach. 50 feet from the ground and the ab is almost free, my right hand struggles to overcome my reflex urge to let go of the rope that my life depends upon. You meet some strange paradoxes when you climb. "Well you've done the E1 bit" says Barcode, as I join him in the shelter of a cave and Andy starts his absail.
You can tell Andy and Barcode have climbed together for years, they're like a married couple, constantly bickering about each other but with an underlying respect that ensures a good and safe climbing partnership. Bar leads the first pitch. It's fairly steady to begin with, nearer the stance it becomes more awkward with a bold move out of the crack to rock over onto the overlapping face with your left foot. It wouldn't have been the obvious choice of move but Barcode has a canny knack of finding the most efficient manoeuvres on rock.
The big one... In quiet anticipation we prepare ropes and swap gear for Andy's lead. The three of us, perched on a 4" ledge, are observed by three seals treading water in the bay, they don't seem to feel the need to scare themselves witless in the pursuit of enjoyment. Andy is progressing well, the runners sound good, really good. I'm glad Bar is coming up last to take the gear out. As he reaches the overhang I gingerly reach out to take a photo, God that overhang looks intimidating. Anxious moments follow as the rope begins to run out, this is a long pitch, luckily Andy reaches the stance and safety.
Here we go, I'm enjoying the trip now, relishing the challenge ahead. A series of cracks link into breaks and ledges every 30 - 40 feet as the route winds diagonally through the vegetation on the slab (more like a face). The cracks get progressively harder as you approach the overhang, toes in, fingers twisted, all movement centred around this thin weakness in the bare face.... Keeping your centre of gravity parallel with the crack as weight is transferred from one foot to the other in steady upward movements... This feels like real climbing. I'm at the overhang now, at it's widest point. I need to traverse right to where it tapers. The most obvious way appears to undercling the crack between the face and the overhang. A liberal dousing of chalk boosts my confidence as set out on this committing hand traverse, feet almost flat against the bare face for friction, arms out stretched, hoping that each successive hold will be as good as the last one. At the taper now, still under clinging. I know the crux is next. This is not a good time to find that the rope has managed to wrap itself around my neck! Dry mouthed I managed carefully to swap sweaty handholds in an awkward attempt to extricate myself from the noose. "O.K deep breaths, relax, you can do this".
Andy gives a concerned grin from the stance 15 feet to the left of me "You might want to chalk up for this bit" he offers. No thanks Andy I'm quite happy clinging on with both hands at the moment. As I look up to study the sequence ahead I realise why Andy looks so concerned. The red rope leads to a runner directly above me, the blue rope (to which I am attached) leads horizontally to Andy's belay device. A fall now would result in a BIG swing into the corner. "Poo Poo Cacker!" I say to Andy, I think he knows what I mean. The holds are, as the guide says 'surprisingly good', pulling onto the face above is a joy. A delicate traverse left to a stance and the trip is over.
Barcode's lead again, a bold layback up the corner. Last out this time, I begin the layback. Solid granite by the handful and dependable friction for the feet, a great feeling when your seconding. I afford myself the luxury I deny myself when leading, I look down and pause for a moment, all 300 foot of this classic route stretches below me. This is why we do this, you don't get views like this on a golf course. With invincible arms pulling confidently up on huge holds at the top you can start to feel immortal, then your unroped and teetering around on grassy slopes again to retrieve the ab rope, reality soon takes a grip and mortality gives you a good slap in the face.
Ian
We did something that has never happened before, the boat could not moor up first time, so we went for a cruise around the island, fine views of the west coast.
Usual tour on the first day, off the boat over to the Devils Slide get that out of the way and then plan the next 3 days fun.
Landing Craft Bay so called because space ships have landed there, mended the autopilots and then shot off over Flying Buttress so called because that's where the space ships go flying over.
The Constable is a piece of rock on Lundy, There has never been an episode of Z cars or the Bill filmed on Lundy, but great name. There are no bolt on Lundy, what a dirty lie! I found one on my toilet door and in the bathroom of the B&B, I saw at least 20 holding the wheels of a tractor. Someone pinched two from the wind tower which caused it to fall over.
Phantom Zawn is not really a Zawn and hey its not really a Phantom either, odd name, great place. The cliffs go all the way to the sea, freak of nature thing wow! I saw the tide go out, what a bad temper, no note or anything, 6 hours later it's back again... and where may I ask have you been, silence, so I pissed on it.
Never let fireworks off underwater, it never says that on the box, good job too, just think of a the drownings that would go with all the other terrible injuries, because people ignore warnings.
Rubbing carbon on the inside of your underpants, best done when your not wearing them. I keep a stick with me and do mine when I am on the toilet. My bum is so black but it absorbs the heat of the sun and keeps me warm. Great tip. Useless on Lundy it was scorchio!.
The day before we had bought a lot of onions, as we climbed the route we ate them smeared on the rock and tossed them down the cliff, the French grading system beats me sometimes. If it had been a new route on Beef buttress we could have called it Beef and Onions, but it was nowhere near and was not a new route.
We lost our watches so to keep track of time I had taken a recipe book and a thermometer, we devised this three way equation; as long as you had the two other parts to a recipe namely ingredients and temperature you can work out the time. Never failed.
On the next day we helicoptered in the Hawaiian Tropic sheep for fun on the big slabs of Lundy. I love the smell of coconut oil smeared all over recently shorn sheep, great smell, distracting.
The threatened breakout of Ebola was staved off by some accurate stone throwing as the diseased monkeys in their hundreds tried to swim ashore we used the advantage of the high ground and some footage from Braveheart over dubbed with the voice of Dustin Hoffman on huge video screens with big loud speakers, what a great day the monkeys had to swim all the way back to the mainland.
It is true what they say about starfish, they are always pleased to see you, come on in the waters lovely, love em ...... on toast kerrunchy like seafood peanut butter.
Skin diving loonies filled the bar, ate the food and drunk the beer. But they left us with the bacon crisps and some banana liquor. Great hangover. aren't Anadin Extra Strength brilliant.
Especial thanks to Vic