Extracts from Newsletter 11
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Like many others, I have had designs on climbing Mount Kenya’s major peaks for a number of years, and two routes in particular, the Diamond Couloir and the Ice Window have earned deserved fame as world classics. When I learned therefore that John would be in Kenya over the New year period and had a couple of weeks free I jumped at the opportunity to join him. As expected from a large mountain massif, Mount Kenya has numerous superb routes, but of those that we climbed the Ice Window was the best and fulfilled all expectations. As this is a long climb (about 800m of sustained Scottish Grade III climbing with no means of escape), we spent the night in the Black Hole bivvi just below the Darwin Glacier in order to get an early start. This bivvi is essentially a natural cavity formed in a horizontal slab which has been enclosed by less than airtight stone walls. Nonetheless, considering we were at about 4300m we spent a remarkably pleasant night here before starting off at 5:45am.
The route began benignly enough with a steep climb up the Darwin Glacier, but after a rope length traverse we where in the couloir proper with a 55 - 65 degree never ending slope ahead. Alternating leads we appeared to make rapid progress as the view became more and more extensive, and our position more and more exposed. The ice quality was perfect, with very little brittle ice and most placements making a satisfying thud as the axes dug in. About six hours later we were still on similar ground with no sign of any end. At this time we were in the region of the impressive ice cave itself ready to make the ‘Traverse of the Gods, a highly exposed steep slope capping the Diamond Couloir. After this, and on less good snow now, we climbed several rope lengths to the aptly named Gate of the Mists, which separates Batian from it’s slightly lesser neighbour Neilon. At the Gate we decided to go straight to the summit of Nelion where a purpose built shelter provided welcome respite (even if it was at almost 5200m). After spending the night with two South Africans who had spent an epic two days on the rocky Normal Route to Batian we completed the traverse to Batian and back before descending by the normal route to Nelion.
A truly magnificent route that I wholeheartedly recommend to anyone who finds them selves in Kenya with a few day to spare. (The Diamond Couloir also looked in good condition while we were there and two Americans had climbed it in two days before. The commitment, however, looks even greater than for ice window, and it requires 100% acclimatisation).
Derek 28th Jan 1997