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"So which mountains did you get to the top of" asked my Mum.
"Err ... None" I replied.
"So what have you been doing?".
"Err.. this and that .. oh yes, we did a nice valley walk".
I didn't think it would be a good idea to divulge the whole story ..........
We left Surrey at 9:30 p.m., arrived Glencoe at 5:45 a.m. Thursday morning dawned wet miserable, with low cloud, GRIM. So what's everybody up to? Nick and Derek are off skiing! Mike and Tim a rest day after climbing Beinn Na Seilg and ascending Munroe Sgurr Nan Coireachan. Richard and Mark where leaving for home, They had been to Stob Coire Nan Lochan, Dorsal Arete and Twisting Gully amongst other things. So that left John, Andy and Myself to do that "valley walk". We were looking for a bothy John had spotted on a map, in the forest behind Sgurr Dhearg. We found it eventually after fording a stream and going round it once or twice. We can report the bothy in good order and worth a visit, only don't leave it until a dark night in an emergency, you won't find it.
Friday dawned slightly more promising and we set off to climb on Stob Coire Nan Lochan. Derek and Andy climbed Twisting Gully (III), Nick and Myself SC Gully (III) - "not in good condition" ... an understatement. I've devised a scale for how out of condition Gullies are:-
1. A bit Dodgy.
2. Should we be here.
3. Help I want my Mum.
SC Gully was a "help I want my Mum". Nick managed to coax me up with a tight rope and patience. Once at the top of the gully in 70 mph winds I foolishly asked
"Any chance of reaching the summit?".
"NO".
John, Mike and Tim climbed Broad Gully (I) and crossed over into the Lost Valley, descending a long snow slope and walking out, returning a little later than the rest of us.
Drawing the curtains on Saturday morning revealed a little more of the mountains than the previous day but the forecast was for rain by lunch time. Mike and Tim left for home and the rest of us returned to the Lost Valley. Derek and Nick headed off to the East Face of Gear Aonach and climbed Gully C (I) and Gully B (II), totalling 460 Metres of snow and ice!
John, Andy and Myself carried on up the valley to some gullies John had seen on the previous day's decent. "We'll be a stones throw away from the summit" he said. Once in the corrie John pointed out a good looking gully and up I went, enjoying myself immensely, showing my companions with snow and ice and climbing in reasonable conditions. At the top, wind, sleet and guess what ....
"Let's get out of here!".
I nearly picked up a stone but wouldn't have known which direction to throw it in anyway.
Back in the hut, drinking tea around the stove, reminiscing on the day and trying to look up the gully we climbed. Not in the book? Oh well, better name it then.
The Temple 125 metres (II) J Temple and party 17th Feb. 1996 Year ..... Dream on.....
"Nick and I are hoping to get something done tomorrow before we leave" says Derek
"Fancy joining us?".
"OK" I reply "Any idea what?"
"Great Gully on Buchaille Etive Mor, grade I/II"
"Sounds good and easy"
Later in the pub Andy casually passes me the guide book.
"Read this" he says.
'BEWARE! Many avalanche incidents have occurred in the Great Gully and Crowberry Basin'.
Cheers Andy.
Sunday dawned with the best weather so far, John and Andy had already left for home, and soon we where off, car loaded, to Etive Mor.
"Won't need my water proofs on" says Derek.
Soon we are climbing up a waterfall that should be ice and Derek is soaking. Two short pitches get us into the massive gully and very soon I'm feeling the exposure. So much so that I nearly ask for a rope except it was in my rucksack and the others where well ahead. This is a grade I/II - I want my Mum! All said and done it was a great climb, topping out in high winds, sleet and snow.
"Lets get out of here" says Derek wisely.
Back in the car Nick casually mentions that we were only 15 mins. from the summit. One of these days I'll get to the top of a Munroe.
Alastair Cochran.